Shoyu ramen

調理器具

• Large stockpot (at least 8 l)
• Second pot for blanching, or a large colander and sink
• Heavy saucepan or small casserole for the chashu (about 20 cm)
• Kitchen string
• Small saucepan for the tare
• Fine sieve and a ladle
• Large pot for the noodles, with a noodle basket or spider
• Zip bag or small container for the eggs
• 4 deep bowls, warmed

始める前に

1. Rinse the chicken wings and pork bones under cold water and remove any blood clots.
2. Halve the onion, slice the ginger and crush the garlic.
3. Wipe the kombu and keep it with the dried shiitake.
4. Take the eggs out only when the water boils; cold eggs crack less and set more predictably.
5. Slice the spring onions thinly and keep them in iced water in the fridge so they stay crisp.

作り方

1. 1

   Blanch the bones

   1 kg chicken wings1 kg pork bones

   Put the chicken wings and pork bones in a pot, cover with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and rinse every piece under cold running water, rubbing off the grey scum.

   目安 The bones are pale and clean, with no brown foam or dark clots left on them.

   コツ This step is what keeps the broth clear. Skipping it leaves a murky, slightly sour-smelling soup.

   5分のタイマーを開始
2. 2

   Start the broth

   4 L cold water

   Clean the pot, return the bones and add the cold water. Bring it up over medium-high heat, then lower to low the moment it reaches a simmer and skim for 15–20 minutes.

   目安 Only a little fine white foam still rises, and the liquid looks clear when you push the bones aside.

   20分のタイマーを開始
3. 3

   Simmer with aromatics

   150 g onion30 g fresh ginger6 かけ garlic50 g green tops of negi or spring onions

   Add the onion, ginger, garlic and negi greens. Keep the pot uncovered on low heat at about 90–95 °C for 3½ hours, topping up with hot water if the bones poke above the surface.

   目安 The surface only trembles with an occasional bubble, the broth is golden and clear, and it smells of roast chicken.

   コツ A rolling boil emulsifies the fat and turns the broth cloudy. If you see steady bubbling, pull the pot half off the burner.

   92 °C · 198 °F 3 時間 30 分のタイマーを開始
4. 4

   Roll the pork belly

   400 g skinless pork belly

   Roll the pork belly tightly along its long side, fat side out. Tie it firmly with kitchen string every 2 cm.

   目安 The roll holds its round shape when you lift it and no layers gap open.
5. 5

   Sear the chashu

   400 g skinless pork belly大さじ1 neutral oil

   Heat the oil in the heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Brown the pork roll on all sides for 8–10 minutes, turning it every 2 minutes.

   目安 The outside is evenly deep golden-brown and the pan smells of roast pork, not burnt fat.

   9分のタイマーを開始
6. 6

   Braise the chashu

   100 ml Japanese dark soy sauce100 ml mirin100 ml sake30 g sugar200 ml water

   Pour off the fat, add the soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar and water and bring to a simmer. Cover with the lid slightly ajar and braise over low heat for 2 hours, turning the roll every 30 minutes.

   目安 A skewer slides into the thickest part with almost no resistance and the liquid has reduced by about a third.

   コツ Let the roll cool in the liquid, then chill it overnight if you can. Cold chashu slices cleanly without falling apart.

   2 時間のタイマーを開始
7. 7

   Boil the eggs

   4 eggs

   Lower the eggs into boiling water over high heat and cook for exactly 6½ minutes. Move them straight into iced water for 5 minutes.

   目安 The shells feel completely cold to the touch.

   コツ Tap the wide end of each egg against the counter before boiling and they peel far more easily.

   100 °C · 212 °F 7分のタイマーを開始
8. 8

   Marinate the eggs

   4 eggs

   Peel the eggs and put them in a zip bag with 150 ml of the cooled, strained chashu liquid mixed with 50 ml of water. Press out the air and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, up to 24.

   目安 The whites have turned an even light amber all over.

   コツ Marinate longer than 24 hours and the yolk starts to firm up and the white turns rubbery and salty.
9. 9

   Make the tare

   80 ml Japanese dark soy sauce (koikuchi)30 ml mirin30 ml sake5 g katsuobushi (bonito flakes)

   Warm the sake and mirin in the small saucepan over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the soy sauce and katsuobushi, heat to about 80 °C without boiling, then take it off the heat, steep for 10 minutes and strain.

   目安 Small wisps of steam rise but there are no bubbles, and the tare smells smoky and deeply savoury.

   80 °C · 176 °F 10分のタイマーを開始
10. 10

    Steep the kombu and shiitake

    10 g kombu4 dried shiitake mushrooms

    Turn off the heat under the broth. Add the kombu and dried shiitake and let them steep for 30 minutes, then strain the broth through the fine sieve.

    目安 You have about 2 litres of clear, amber broth that smells of the sea as well as chicken.

    コツ Kombu boiled for long turns slimy and bitter, which is why it goes in off the heat.

    30分のタイマーを開始
11. 11

    Save the fat

    Let the broth stand for 5 minutes and skim the clear fat from the surface into a small bowl. Keep about 4 teaspoons for the bowls and discard the rest.

    目安 The fat is clear yellow and the broth below it shows only small dots of oil.
12. 12

    Slice the chashu

    400 g skinless pork belly

    Remove the string and cut the chashu into slices 5 mm thick. Warm the slices in a dry pan over medium heat for 1 minute per side, or in a ladle of hot broth.

    目安 The slices are warm through and the fat edges turn glossy and lightly caramelised.
13. 13

    Cook the noodles

    520 g fresh ramen noodles

    Reheat the broth until steaming, around 90 °C. Shake the noodles loose and cook them in a large pot of boiling unsalted water over high heat for 1½–2 minutes, or as the packet says, then drain well.

    目安 The noodles are springy and bend with a slight snap; they have lost their raw floury taste.

    コツ Cook the noodles in plenty of plain water, never in the broth: their starch would cloud it.

    2分のタイマーを開始
14. 14

    Assemble the bowls

    3 spring onions80 g menma (seasoned bamboo shoots)4 nori sheets4 eggs

    Put 2 tablespoons of tare and 1 teaspoon of the saved fat in each warm bowl, then ladle in about 450 ml of hot broth and stir. Add the noodles, fold them once, and top with chashu, a halved egg, menma, spring onions and a sheet of nori.

    目安 The broth is a clear deep brown with fine golden droplets on top, and the egg yolk is jammy and orange.

    コツ Taste one spoon of broth before adding the noodles. Add tare a teaspoon at a time if it tastes flat.

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